Pat McGrath and Martin Margiela - Fashion Week 2024
This week, we decided to revisit a key moment of Fashion Week . You may have already heard about it, but we're going to tell you more!
Pat McGrath shone brightly at the Maison Margiela Couture 2024 show, creating a porcelain doll effect that was simply magical.
Instantly going viral, the question on everyone's lips was how Pat managed to achieve this ethereal makeup look. All was revealed during her Maison Margiela Live Masterclass, where she shared step-by-step the secrets of creating this bewitching look.
At the request of Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano, the brief called for an otherworldly, theatrical, and romantic makeup look. This look was no small feat to accomplish.
With the briefing taking place on January 5th, Pat and her team worked hard every day leading up to the show on the 25th to bring the dolls to life with makeup. The big secret is that Pat has been working on the concept of Porcelain Skin for three years. The team trained so that the look, executed by two makeup artists, could be achieved in just 45 minutes on the big day.
Various levels and variations of this stunning look are featured in the show, let's dive into one of these creations together.
THE STEPS OF THESE INCREDIBLE MAKEUPS
Skin Preparation
Skin prep remains the holy grail of any makeup artist, and for this look, the team paid special attention to skin care, taking a spa-like approach. The ritual begins with PAT McGRATH LABS’s Divine Skin Rose 001 The Essence, which acts like an elixir, visibly smoothing and softening skin’s texture. The result: skin that’s nourished, hydrated, and illuminated with a legendary glow.
Foundation Base
Pat opted for her own creation, Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Foundation. This divine, oil-free foundation transforms into a lightweight serum, providing buildable, smooth coverage. For lighter skin tones, a touch of Kryolan Supracolor Clown White was added for a pale, chalky effect. All without the need for powder, just a tiny amount of Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Blurring Under-Eye Powder to prevent creases around the eyes.
The Eyebrows
To achieve this look, it is imperative that the team can draw fresh, delicate, doll-like brows. In order to block the brows effectively, it is essential to ensure that they are clean, free of any oil residue. Agents such as witch hazel or special effects alcohol can be used for this purpose. There are several methods for setting the brows, whether it is with a specialized water-based glue or a craft glue, which requires methodical application, pressing downward and adding successive layers before applying concealer and foundation. Successful brow blocking is crucial; a mistake could mean having to start the look over again.
Naturally, the appearance of the eyebrows is influenced by the skin tone of the model. The goal is to subtly draw the shape of the eyebrows while maintaining a natural, fresh brown hue. A fine brush was used by the team to add depth and create delicate hairline strokes, giving a painted doll look when viewed closely. To ensure perfect symmetry, using a silk thread or a straight-edged object, such as a sheet of paper or a ruler, is a foolproof trick.
The Eyes
Creating a captivating depth in the eyes is the key element that gives the models the poetic, doll-like effect with captivating eyes. The team favored Pat McGrath’s PermaGel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil (in Blitz Brown for this look), carefully applied to the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Using the warmth of a skilled finger, they initiated the desired depth effect. The pencil proved to be a perfect complement, accentuating the slightly wet finish of the look. Pat personally used the Mothership I: Subliminal palette, playing with the shades Depth, Ultimate Taupe, and a subtle touch of Substance, considered the foundations of all her shows and editorials.
During this crucial stage, it is essential:
- to keep the eyes without squinting to avoid too pronounced lines in this delicate and romantic look
- apply some of the eye shadow under the eye to resonate harmoniously with the rest of the eye aesthetic.
The Blush
To achieve a doll-like blush effect, the first step is to apply the Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm in Peach Lotus for this look. As for placement, it's key to apply the cream in a circular motion and then diffuse the contour from there, softening the shape with your fingers or a brush.
The trick then lies in using the Skin Fetish: Divine Blush powder (in Nude Venus for this look), mixed with the Glow Colour Balm, applied to the top of the cheeks and at the highest point using a brush. You can also gently blend with a beauty blender, where necessary, to soften the shape of the blush.
The Lips
The process begins with the use of Ultra Glide Eye Pencil, also in Blitz Brown, to add depth to the inside of the lips. Then, MatteTrance Lipstick in Guinevere, a blood crimson, is applied to the center with a blur, gradually becoming more sheer towards the edges of the lips (a deliberate technique to avoid overly pronounced contours).
The Glue Trick
The team enjoyed exploring the look for several weeks, testing it in different ways to ensure it would hold up well over the three-hour show. During these tests, they found that certain areas needed reinforcement to ensure maximum durability.
To do this, they applied special effects water-based glue using a cotton swab. The flexibility of this glue allowed for precise application, focusing particularly on the areas most prone to potential detachment: around the mouth, nostrils and at the corners of the eyes (but avoiding direct contact with the eyes to prevent irritation).
The Mysterious "Airbrush" Spray
Savvy internet sleuths correctly guessed that the skin's porcelain effect was due to an aerosol spray—or at least, they were partially right. Pat revealed that it wasn't a specific product, but rather an alchemical concoction she concocted herself by using various masks to achieve the perfect consistency. The creation included a blend of Daggett & Ramsdell Tea Tree Peel-Off Mask, Freeman Renewing Cucumber Gel Peel-Off Mask, Proot Calendula Peel-Off Mask, and Hydrating Pineapple Peel-Off Mask, all distilled with Skin Illustrator Clear Gloss and water. This spray seems to pack a lot of skin-loving benefits.
This is how Pat revealed his plans to develop and imminently launch his own version of the product, delivering porcelain-looking skin in a single step.
When applying the spray, the team was careful to use spoons to protect the makeup around the eyes and lips, then applied it in layers. Each new layer imparted a richer, more radiant glow, with seven to eight considered the optimal number for this look. Between each layer, Pat and her team used hot air to dry the models' faces—and surprisingly, the end result wasn't sticky.
The Final Touches
The final touch to the look is to apply a mix of Lust: Gloss in Peach Perversion and Flesh Astral, creating a wet, glossy effect on the eye. Gently adding a little product under the eye also intensifies the luminosity.
To complete the look, add a few coats of FetishEYES mascara, allowing for total customization of the volume by layering as many layers as desired. Above all, this gives the look a doll-like allure.
Hoping that you enjoyed this article, I'll see you very soon for new information on Makeup and its news, training courses or even my daily life as a Professional Makeup Artist!
Laurie Feligioni